Over the River and Through the Woods

Thanksgiving is one of the busiest travel days of the year.  The statement might seem odd at first if you equate “travel” with flying. However, the majority of people travelling over the river and through the woods to Grandmother’s house are most likely to do so by car on the day of the holiday. When the last piece of pie has been eaten, AAA estimates that 46.9 million Americans will have travelled to be with family and friends. The majority will travel during the holiday period between Wednesday and Sunday. That number represents an increase over the previous year and is expected to either remain the same or increase again this year.  Driving is often the preferred method for destinations 300 miles or less. It’s more economical as a family of four to pay for gas rather than airline tickets. However, let’s say your relatives live in the Raleigh-Durham area of North Carolina which is just under 600 miles south. The average airline ticket from NYC during a non-holiday period currently costs approximately $193.00 per person. For a family of 4 your total travel cost is a reasonable $772.00. Let’s look at the same airline, same flights for November 23 returning November 28, 2016. The rate is $462.00 per person at the time I am writing this. Multiply $462.00 by 4 passengers and you are at a whopping total of $1848.00. That number is pre seat assignment cost and paid checked luggage. This local family would need to depart their home 4 hours prior to flight time to drive to the airport. Once there, they need to locate a parking space, check their luggage, be cleared for travel by airport security and still arrive at the departure gate on time. If they lift off as scheduled for the hour and 45 minute flight, you’re looking at a total time investment of almost 6 hours. If the same family packed the SUV, loaded the kiddies and hit the road, their drive time would be between 9 to 10 hours. The extra 4 hours in each direction could yield a savings of at least $1076. That hefty total might be enough to tempt many to drive. Some distances are just too great to attempt with a young family. Despite the hefty costs, longer distances are often best accomplished by flying. This mode requires much more preparation if you wish to get the dates, times and the rates you want. When planning to reserve a holiday period flight, it is best to devise a plan that focuses on organization, a willingness to get in the game and commitment to a strategy. This is the travel industry’s Super Bowl and the best prepared team is usually successful.

It can be a challenge to find reasonably priced fares. Especially on flights from the local airports that will allow you to work a full day and yet make it in time for pre-dinner festivities. Here are my suggestions:

1. Avoid connecting flights during any holiday even if it saves $100.00 or more. The money you save won’t be worth it if you find yourself stranded in Chicago due to a missed connection. I suppose you could use the $100.00 you saved to buy snacks and beverages while you wait for your next flight.
2. Pack the car and fill your gas tank the night before departure. This will eliminate the extra time spent double checking the house for anything left behind.  You also avoid an additional 15 minutes of anxiety if you have to wait in longer than normal lines for the fuel pumps.
3. If your drive to the airport takes 2 hours, you should allow 3 hours to make the same drive in case you get stuck in holiday traffic.
4. Increase the regular 2 hour check in time at the airport for domestic flights to 3 hours. For international flights increase your arrival at the airport from 3 to 4 hours prior. It’s amateur time, baby, and the airports will be filled with novices unaccustomed to packing correctly to ensure an expedient check in. It’s likely that security lines will move slower than normal.
5. Pack your own snacks in case of delays and to save money. Fortunately, airport food is getting better but the higher prices reflect not only the increase in quality but also the convenience.

Perhaps the stress of the airport or the cost of the flights has you thinking about driving to be with your family in Raleigh-Durham. Departing from Dutchess County you would drive approximately 600 miles in each direction. If your car averaged 30 miles per gallon highway driving, you might expect to use 40 gallons of fuel.  The cost of gas in the local area is an average 2.39 per gallon and will decrease as you drive South, eventually dropping to an average of $2.20. If I use only the New York pricing we can expect that your total travel cost should be under $100.00. That number doesn’t include the snacks purchased during rest area stops.

Opting to drive allows you to set your own schedule. You determine your own departure and arrival times. It is also a premium opportunity to encourage family bonding. Trivia games, singing with the radio or playing an old fashioned round of “I Spy” (I spy something red with 8 sides = a stop sign) are fun ways to pass the time.  I also spy a good chance to sneak in a geography lesson. Parents could prepare trivia information for each state they’ll pass through to teach the kids or grandkids about state capitols, and historic landmarks. The names of local sport teams might spark enthusiasm as you wind your way down or across the states. This is memory making at its best and NO headsets allowed. Talk about how they are related to the people they will be meeting. Sneak in a good manners lesson about how to greet people. Explain what a “Kid’s table” is. Pack pillows and blankets for mid trip naps. Bring sandwiches, snacks and beverages to keep costs and stops along the way to a minimum. Bathroom and refueling breaks will be necessary and you don’t want anyone to be tempted by expensive sugary treats and snacks available for sale.

This might seem like a lot of effort and it will be but it will be worth it. Of all the suggestions I offer above, the best advice is this: remember to be grateful for the bounty that is your family.

Pay to Play

Are you old enough to remember buying an airline ticket, receiving a seat assignment, and being welcomed aboard a clean plane? Your luggage was checked without a fee, and as you settled into the aisle seat you requested, the Flight Attendant handed you a complimentary blanket. You also received a headset that allowed you to enjoy the complimentary in flight entertainment. A selection of alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages accompanied a hot meal on long flights or a snack on shorter flights.

An experience such as this can still be had aboard international carriers. On domestic flights it’s gone the way of airport porters and refundable economy tickets and both no longer exist. The airlines say it’s all about “options”. I say it’s about profit.  Their seemingly selfless goal is to allow each passenger to choose his or her amenities to personalize their trip to their liking. I would call that fancy marketing.  The air carriers graciously allow you to pay more if you want an aisle or window seat. You can also pay more if you wish to have the exit aisle with the extra legroom, but buyer beware. The mantle of authority is transferred to you because sitting at the exit row comes with additional responsibility. In the event of an emergency, should it become necessary, you will be the hero who unlocks and opens the emergency door. Your mission, should you accept it, also includes assisting others off the plane before you too, beat a hasty retreat. Perhaps they should pay you for agreeing to do what should be the responsibility of the crew. Once airborne, you’ll barely have time to put your seat back tray in an upright and locked position before flight attendants will offer headsets for sale, mileage earning credit cards and Sky Mall catalogs from which the truly bored with extra money order odd items to be delivered to their home. From the very first time a passenger paid to sit on the aisle I hung my head, recognizing the beginning of the end of basic on board amenities. The amenities are still available to passengers but no longer on a complimentary basis. Most carriers proudly proclaim that it’s all about choice. From my middle seat the only choice I see is pay for good service or don’t pay and receive no service.  Surely, we all deserve a fair amount of leg room? At five foot two I rarely have space issues. Still, I sit in solidarity with my fellow, taller travelers who are allotted less legroom than found at the local movie theatre. You usually pay about $10.00 at the theatre but at least you get a first run movie with decent sound quality. Today’s modern theatres offer seats that recline to a comfortable position and some even swivel.  Why should we have to pay to check luggage? Surely if we were taking a short jaunt we would drive our own vehicles and fill our trunks or hatchbacks and depart on time. It’s obvious, at least to me, that if we’re flying, it’s most likely to a destination out of local driving range. Shouldn’t it be presumed that we will need to bring some personal items along for the ride? The only travelers I’ve met who didn’t need to bring luggage were business travelers and nudists. I know what business fares cost. Believe me when I tell you that business travelers pay air rates high enough to allow you, me and everyone in rows 15 through 19 to check luggage for free. Business folk might need a change of shirt, underwear and a briefcase filled with paperwork and nudists, well they just need a toothbrush and some sunscreen. Seats and meals were just the start of the fees. It used to be a pleasure to escort a young adventurer on their very first flight. Most airlines even had special toys or coloring books for the wee solo travelers. The toys are long gone and have been replaced with fees as high as $100.00 in each direction to send Junior to visit Grandma. My estimates put the sky high babysitting cost at about $2.00 a minute.

That’s long enough to escort the UM (unaccompanied minor) to their seat and assure that their seat belt is fastened correctly. They get checked on a few times during the flight and then after arriving at their destination, are walked off into the loving arms of their waiting family. I’m not sure how the airlines justify this fee since it would be a challenge for the minor to wander off a moving aircraft and get lost. If you’ve decided that you just can’t leave your best friend home you can expect to pay anywhere from $35.00 to $195.00 for Fido’s flight, in each direction. That’s a lot of kibble, especially since the pet carrier is expected to go under seat in front of you where you would normally place a carry on bag. As an animal lover, with that fee, I would expect the royal treatment for my dog to include a special showing of “Lassie” and gourmet biscuits.

The bright side to all of these fees is that airfare prices have remained fairly constant through the decades. My very first flight was to Florida and the cost of the transportation was somewhere south of $200.00. Today you can book a nonstop flight from New York to Miami for under $160.00 including taxes! That’s definitely progress. It’s your choice to raise that fare by paying the fees for extra luggage or food or movies or legroom with the key word being “choice”. There are fewer airlines flying today compared to 30 years ago but competition remains vigorous and the airlines look for ways to keep their costs low so their prices remain lean and accessible to the masses. Deregulation of the airlines may have been the catalyst for the competition but charging fees is now part of a long term concierge style strategy and is here to stay.

A Brief History of Cruising

In the beginning, ships set out on perilous journeys in search of new lands to conquer. This was usually at the behest of a greedy King or Queen and far from luxurious. Often sailing for months, the most a crew member could hope for was to survive the journey and arrive alive at their intended destination.  An equally successful return to home port was a bonus. Pleasing his or her Majesty with whatever riches or new land discoveries and acquisitions they procured along the way usually guaranteed a better life.  Trade was also a primary motivation as precious metals, spices, textiles and other goods were brought back to homelands with hopes of currying favor. The failures outweighed the success and many a stolen treasure is still to be found at the bottom of very deep oceans.  Eventually ships morphed into fishing and whaling vessels procuring food and coveted whale bone. However, it would be centuries before average people would board a boat by choice. Fast forward to the very late 1800’s when Albert Ballin believed that the well-heeled would enjoy boarding a ship for fun and relaxation. According to www.cruisehistory.com   Mr. Ballin is considered to be the “inventor and father of the pleasure cruise”. He straddled two worlds as a Jew in Germany and a successful ship designer that brought riches to the German government before ultimately being branded as a traitor and taking his own life. However his successes are his legacy. Cruise lines such as Holland America owe a nod of respect towards his vision of the Prinzessin Viktoria Luise. The ship was designed to recreate the experience found in luxurious European hotels while providing passage simultaneously. These were the golden days of travel where men and women filled trunks with frocks and waist coats. Each day aboard the ocean liner saw several changes of outfits based upon the day’s itinerary and social functions. Passage was booked by “class” which also determined the prominence of where your cabin would be located, the level of service you received and in which restaurant you would dine. As a nod to this former elegance in cruising, today’s Cunard Cruise Line still observes the tradition of cabin position determining your dining experience.

The potential of bringing cruising to the masses was eventually recognized and Carnival Cruise Line was the first company to bring fun to the seas. Their colorful casual laid back style appealed to the suit wearing, schedule keeping, nine to fivers who wanted to do anything on their vacation, except dress for dinner. Their food was adequate but plentiful and the juxtaposition of a superior wine list to moderate food was due to the fact that the former CEO of the company was a bonafide oenophile. Not wanting to be left in the wake of a competing cruise company Norwegian Cruise Line took it a step further by morphing into “Freestyle” cruising where jeans could now be worn in the dining room and reservations or timed seatings were a thing of the past. True, Norwegian had a rough start and a lot of negative experiences with the new program but its current success can be measured by the number of copycats. However, what Norwegian didn’t get right, other cruise lines did by learning from Norwegian’s mistakes. Norwegian’s lack of initial success was mostly due to assuming that the passengers wouldn’t notice that the same restaurant that was serving breakfast by day was being presented as an Italian Restaurant by night. The passengers weren’t fooled by the thinly veiled quick change and the complaints came rolling in like waves on the ocean. Competing cruise lines took note and refined the experience in a way that allowed both freestyle and traditional dining on the same ship by utilizing multi-tiered dining venues. Today’s cruise lines come in all shapes and sizes. Smaller ships plying smaller bodies of American waters such as the St. Lawrence or Mississippi Rivers have revived a feeling of Americana. Surely, you will be just as surprised as I to learn that there are over 250,000 rivers in the United States. Exploration of European waterways with their locks and castles and easy access to magnificent European cities has almost quintupled. The popularity of river cruising is such that it is one of the fastest growing markets in the travel industry. Large cruise lines are entering the river cruise market while ironically, Viking River Cruises, one of the most familiar river cruise companies is literally testing the ocean waters by debuting a larger ship.  Ships built 20 years ago that were considered large carrying a mere 2000 passengers now seem dwarfed by today’s mega liners carrying 5000 passengers. These vessels now offer dozens of entertainment venues and unique experiences that include an ice bar complete with faux fur coats for you to don during your chilly visit. Celebrity chefs such as Guy Fieri have food outlets on board with special menus for cruise passengers. Microbreweries and entertainment by Blueman Group can also be found at sea. Your children can meet Sponge Bob Square Pants while sailing and even Mickey Mouse himself has dipped his oversized feet into the water with great success. Yet, there is still a market for Mid size liners or as we in the travel industry call them “classic ships”. These smaller vessels might have fewer activity options but offer an attractive starting price and are also less likely to overwhelm first time cruisers. The fastest growing sector in the cruise industry today is river cruising both exotic and domestic. Smaller ships host fewer passengers than large cruise ships and offer choices that range from relaxed atmosphere to upscale ambiance. Combining incredible views of European cities and curated menus that reflect the locale gives an intimate experience that can’t be found aboard large ships.  Imagine visiting exotic Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, aboard a 30 passenger boat. You immerse yourself into an exotic land and return to the familiar comfort of a ship designed with Western passengers in mind. As the competition has increased and cruise lines began to fail, consolidation was inevitable. Long time cruisers will remember the popular Home Lines Cruises which was absorbed by Celebrity Cruises, which, by the way, is owned by Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines who also own Azamara Cruise Lines. Is your head spinning? You will likely be surprised to learn that Carnival Cruise Lines, one of the biggest players in the casual cruising markets owns Holland America, Cunard Lines, Princess Cruises and the luxury Seabourn line. According to Florida-Caribbean Cruise Association, 2015 saw a record breaking 3 million cruise passengers visiting 1000 ports of call and the debut of 22 new ships. These are impressive numbers but more notable to me is that not one of these ships nor those in the past single ship has ever borne the name Albert Ballin.

 

 

Bikes, Boats, and Beer

I’ve recently visited Amsterdam, Netherlands. As part of my “job” I get to tell people why they should visit the city and what they should see and do during their stay. You can insert the classic response: “it’s a tough job but somebody’s gotta do it”, but that actually is part of my job.  I do hope I can entice you to visit the city by sharing my experiences. It would be easy to sum up Amsterdam with the 3 “B’s”: Bicycles, Boats and Beer but Amsterdam is more complicated than that. The city has a unique and open culture that works well for them. The locals only ask that you respect their freestyle living and get out of the way of fast rolling bikes. Known as the Venice of the North, Amsterdam has almost 1300 bridges (an extra “B”!)  crossing 165 canals. Bicycles are the primary mode of transportation for most Amsterdammers but you also find public forms of transportation that include trams and buses. The congested traffic provides proof that there is an abundance of automobiles as well. You will sometimes see drivers dare to challenge a bicyclist for space and usually lose. The Dutch version of the family station wagon consists of mom on a bike with a basket full of groceries. Dad is rolling alongside with one kid in front of him sitting on the handlebars and a younger child behind him in a special bicycle seat. It was not unusual to see a family travelling together on bicycles with the youngest child using training wheels. They deftly and daringly weave in and out of busy 6 lane traffic, assuming that they have the right of way. Even if it weren’t a given right, they would still claim it for their own. Most bicycles are equipped with bells and you will hear the ting, ting as a bicyclist whizzes past you leaving you wondering how they seemingly came out of nowhere. Bicycle parking lots dot the streets with some housing thousands of bikes at a time. I could not determine a system that easily allowed a bike owner to retrieve his or her bicycle and quite frankly, one bike looks like another to me. Perhaps the riders just took the most easily accessible bike at the moment. Many riders will use bicycle chains and you will see bikes secured to fences, sign posts, light poles, store fronts and even to other chained bikes. According to the official Iamsterdam.com website “an estimated 800,000 people or 63 percent of the population use their bikes on a daily basis. 32% of traffic movement within the city is by bicycle compared to 22 percent by automobile and only 16 percent by public transportation”. In the very center of the city 48 percent of people get where they’re going by riding a bicycle.

Boats are also popular as an alternative transportation choice thanks to the 100 kilometers of canals that wind through the city. To us non-metric Americans, that’s 62 miles of water flowing past beautiful historic homes and buildings. Floating through Amsterdam offers an easy alternative and unique way to navigate a congested city. In addition to the privately owned boats, hundreds of public sightseeing vessels allow visitors the chance to see the city from a different perspective at water level. It’s relaxing and depending upon the time of day you might also be able to enjoy a luncheon or dinner cruise. Commercial exchanges such as floating bars and restaurants and souvenir shops are common but my favorite use of a boat was the De Poezenboot. Translated as “the Cat Boat” it’s a loose play on words referencing Puss in Boots and is a floating cat rescue and adoption organization.

Beer! If your first thought is to grab a Heineken in downtown Amsterdam you’d be surprised at how wrong that answer is. The locally brewed beverage is not the local favorite apparently due to the Amsterdammers’ distaste for the company’s perceived gross capitalism.  In a city where one bar alone serves over 200 types of bottled beer and at least a dozen more on tap, you could grab a craft beer every night for 9 months and never repeat a variety. Unless of course you chose to do so. This is a city that takes its beer seriously, very seriously. The history of beer making in Amsterdam goes back to the Middle Ages when a lack of clean drinking water forced the locals to seek options that didn’t include a side of dysentery. Beer had the additional bonus of making homely wives more desirable, work places more tolerable and dinner time more sociable. There’s no doubt that that the Dutch share recipes with the local neighbors Belgium and Germany, two countries that also know a thing or two about hops. As a non-beer drinker I must rely on the locals who informed me that the best beers on the Dutch market are produced by companies most of us won’t recognize. Breweries such as La Trappe, De Molen and Emelisse,  consistently top the “best Dutch beers” lists. Each brewery produces multiple varieties giving beer connoisseurs lots to taste and talk, or perhaps argue, about.

There is a 4^th “B” – one that is whispered about in the States but spoken of openly and is on display in “Anything goes Amsterdam”. I’m coyly referencing “Babes”. Amsterdam has a very active Red Light District. Yes, it’s legal but obviously there have to be some limits so, photos of the women on display in the windows are not allowed. There are very big men who will not so gently remind you of this by confiscating your camera. Within this Red Light District, you will occasionally find a blue light indicating that while the “women” in the windows might look like women, looks can sometimes be deceiving. Buyers might want to beware.

Acceptance is both a choice and a lifestyle in Amsterdam and seems to work extremely well for the locals. It might be a bit shocking for others but if you approach the experience with an open mind it might be the most interesting vacation you’ve ever had.

36 Hours in Amsterdam

 

If you had only 36 hours in the city of Amsterdam, Holland, a.k.a. the Netherlands would you jump at the chance? Or would you decline, reasoning that there wasn’t enough to time to “really” see the city? Operating on the theory that enjoying one and a half days in Amsterdam is better than no days in Amsterdam, I submit that it’s all about making good choices. Truly, there are no wrong choices since it’s a matter of preference and prioritizing what matters or intrigues you the most. A city such as Amsterdam has so much personality it should be its own small country where you could easily spend a week or more. However, we’re talking brevity here. The best planners will always start with a master list, one that eventually gets culled to the final magic number. Here, that magic number was 3. Three experiences seemed manageable given the short amount of time but they needed to be unique to Amsterdam. My initial list included historical choices such as the Anne Frank House and several museum options. I added in some limited “seasonal” selections that included Keukenhof, a 79 acre park that is on every gardener’s wish list. Local experiences such as bike riding past the wind mills or floating down one of the many canals on a barge were also considered. My decisions were based upon opportunity, emotional content and what was uniquely of Amsterdam.

My first choice was to visit Keukenhof located 45 minutes from Amsterdam in Lisse. Keukenhof is one of the largest gardens in the world with 79 acres of sheer beauty. As with so many other things in life, timing is everything. With a window limited to a scant 8 weeks each year, the opportunity to see the 7 million springtime blooming bulbs is narrow. I reasoned that I could always visit Amsterdam again but I wouldn’t be able to guarantee that a future visit would coincide with the blooming of the bulbs.  I would be a fool to not take the opportunity to witness 800 varieties of tulips, hyacinths and daffodils sprouting in unison. A mélange of reds, pinks, burgundies, oranges, whites, yellows, greens, blues and violets spread throughout the park as though a rainbow had literally been planted in this magnificent garden and sprouted. Some of the gardens were themed and one of my favorites was the Delft garden. The famous blue and white pottery bears the name of the city where it’s produced and is a popular collectible item. It was also used as a focal point for a blue and white garden. In an unexpected twist the pottery was broken into pieces which were then randomly attached to a waist high white wall. The flowers planted at the base of the wall were color coordinated in blue and white. It was simple, unexpected and elegant. If you have the opportunity, I would certainly recommend a visit. If you never travel to Holland, a visit to your local garden center might be the next best thing. Eighty percent of the bulbs grown in the park are exported, many to America.

My second choice was a somber choice. I opted to visit the Anne Frank house at Prinsengracht 263, Amsterdam. It is the former Opekta factory owned by Anne’s father, Otto Frank. Mr. Frank ran a successful business selling spices and pectin for making jams. When it became clear that he and his family would be persecuted by the Nazi regime Mr. Frank transferred ownership of his corporation to an associate and with his family and several other associates, went into hiding in a secret annex of the building. During this time, his coming-of-age daughter Anne wrote poetry and diary entries that seem wiser than her limited 13 years. Her writings were published in a book titled “Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl”. It has been printed and published in 60 countries, translated into 70 languages and more than 30 million copies of the book have sold.  [DC1] The book urges you to revisit the past so as not to repeat the same mistakes in the future. Of all the great speeches given during World War II the voice of one young Jewish girl still speaks to us. If you stop to listen, what you will hear, above all, is “hope”. My travel companions and I arrived without a reservation for a timed entry ticket and opted to take a chance by waiting in line. The exhibit opened at 9:00am and we thought we’d beat the crowds by arriving an hour prior to opening. As I got on the back end of a very long queue, I realized that many other tourists had the same idea.  After an hour of standing in the cold we purchased our admission tickets and followed the slow moving line into the exhibit. We walked silently through the former office building and got a real sense of the era. The preservation of the living quarters offered proof of how well prepared the family was. At the center of all this are the writings of a 13 year old girl, Anne. Through her diary entries you get the sense of a young girl on the cusp of becoming a woman, wise beyond her limited number of years. I look at her photos and in her face I see my mother as a young girl. The similarities are immediately noticeable and I realize how fortunate I am that my Jewish Grandparents were already in the states when the war broke out. No person can exit that building without a new appreciation for the freedom they enjoy on a daily basis.

My third choice brings art and culture to the mix. There are over 50 museums in Amsterdam, far too many to see in a 36 hour period but I reasoned that I should visit at least one. I chose to go to the Rijksmusem, (rhymes with bikesmuseum) partly because of proximity. Also, because I thought I would find the collections at the Rijksmuseum a bit more accessible than the abstract impressionism of the works at the Vincent Van Gogh museum. Stepping up to the admission desk I was advised that the museum would close in 45 minutes. My query about where I would find the most important collection resulted in being directed to floor 2. I didn’t have time to wait for the elevator and dashed up the stairs and came face to face with “The Nightwatch”. This grand painting is one of Rembrandt’s most famous and was drawing crowds. The familiar “Syndics of the Draper’s Guild” was also on display. I will publicly admit that my recognition of the piece had more to do with a Dutch Masters cigar box than cultural acumen.  With closing time approaching quickly, I made an effort to view as many works as possible as I headed for the exit. Despite the pedigree of the pieces housed within the majestic building perhaps the most popular piece resides in the outside courtyard. If you appreciate pop art, you might be familiar with the classic set of giant letters that spell “Iamsterdam”. They are located in front of the museum and have been used in a campaign to promote the city. Each letter stands 6.5 feet high and collectively the letters stretch out to 77 feet long. The crowds waiting to photograph the display were so thick that I left without getting a picture of the iconic image. Perhaps next time. Good planning helped me maximize my experience in a minimum amount of time. While I did leave satisfied with what I saw and what I did, I’m happy to say that the city also left me wanting more. With flight time less than driving to Washington D.C., it’s a great long weekend option and I hope to return in the future.

Out of the Mouths of Babes

You don’t often see children on a river cruise so when a young girl boarded the boat it immediately caught my attention. Succumbing to stereotypes, I expected the worst; bad behavior, complaining about unfamiliar food, repeatedly hearing the ever familiar “I’m bored” and refusing to be exposed to anything that remotely resembled learning. She initially clung to the woman I assumed was her Mother and the other female travel companions who appeared to be friends of her Mom.  As the trip progressed my opinion quickly changed. She was a well behaved, witty and talented young girl who could often be found sitting quietly reading a book or coloring with crayons, typical 10 year old things. Okay, maybe she wasn’t so typical. There were no head phones to be seen, not a single cell phone and no pre-teen pop star magazines. I and many others on board were soon charmed by this young traveler. I eventually complimented her “Mom” on her daughter’s behavior and learned that she was not her Mother. She was an Aunt. She was also a fellow Travel Agent who when travelling, always chose one niece or nephew to accompany her. It was considered to be both a learning and bonding experience for both of them. I was impressed that Anna, her niece, willingly and eagerly participated in most of the excursions with nary a “are we there yet?” or a single “do I have to?” The child was well mannered at the dinner table, sampling menu items that went well beyond franks and beans or macaroni and cheese.  The attentive staff ensured that a child friendly treat such as ice cream and chocolate milk always accompanied the adult style coffee and Crepes Suzette or Rhubarb Ragout with Cream Chantilly. One evening, after dinner, Anna and her entourage were relaxing in the piano lounge. She had been taking piano lessons back home and when invited to give a performance she obliged. I happened to be sitting fairly close to the piano and watched the concentration on her face as she read from the sheet music. I admired her confidence and ability to move past the unplanned long pauses and incorrect notes. Reading sheet music could be described as deciphering a foreign language in mathematical increments. It’s challenging and consuming, requiring dedication that many adults don’t possess. But this was less about accuracy and more about courage and confidence and she nailed them both. The next day in the lounge I sat across from her. I watched her knit and I envied her varied talents and silently congratulated her parents for raising a well behaved and well-rounded preteen. Clearly, that’s no small feat in today’s world of out of control pop stars and ‘tween television divas. I shared several excursions with her family group and noticed that she proved to be a good sport even when the weather wasn’t on its best behavior. Upon arriving at the port call of Mainz, Germany, by chance, we chose the same excursion.  The day’s visit was to the Gutenberg museum, famous for printing presses and creating the first printed Bible. I expected it to be a ho-hum experience and wondered how a 10 year old would bear the stolid presentation that reeked of history and learning. Our tour guide was accredited by the museum and would be taking us through the history of the printing press. But first, he needed an Assistant. Wisely choosing the young girl, she became engaged physically and mentally in the subject matter and her enthusiasm brought the audience along for the ride. They both donned rubber aprons and thick, elbow high rubber gloves as protection from ink splatters. The letter blocks that spelled out the first page of the Bible were already set in place. We watched as she gripped the roller and applied ink to the letters. The Tour Guide lent a hand to place the oversized sheet of paper in the correct position. However, it was she and she alone who pulled the rolling bar across the screen to recreate the first page of the Gutenberg Bible. Her reward for her participation was hearty applause and a fabulous souvenir. She was allowed to keep the piece she had just created. Imagine the story she was able to share with her classmates upon her return!  The next day our journey continued on to Rudesheim. While riverboats tend to sail at night, we floated by day to allow us to see the most beautiful section of the Rhine.  We passed the statue of the Lorelei whose allure was said to be so great and her song so seductive that myth has it she lured the mightiest of sailors to their deaths on the rocks. This was one of the most castle dense sections of the river, most in ruins but still impressive. In the land where fairy tales began, each castle had its own history and tale of woe. It would seem that owning a castle in the medieval days didn’t always work out so well for the occupants. As we approached the Burg Rheinstein Castle, our cruise director told us the history of the castle. More likely folklore than truth, but when you’re floating down the Rhine it’s easy to believe the local stories. Two children, Kuno and Gerba grew together as playmates and fell in love as young adults. As was tradition, Kuno of Reichenstein Castle sent his unsavory Uncle to the Rheinstein Castle on his behalf to ask for the woman’s hand in marriage. The Uncle, realizing the merits of the young woman, decided he wanted her for himself. Gerba had no choice and Kuno was heartbroken at the loss of his beloved. On the day of the Wedding the Uncle mounted his finest steed and raced to the Church. Along the way his horse became spooked and tossed the Uncle to his death, allowing Kuna and Gerba to finally marry and spend the rest of their lives happily together. 

The ship grew quiet as we reflected upon the tragic story with the happy ending. However, eventually all children will be just that, children. Despite her maturity, patience and incredibly good behavior, apparently this child had finally reached her limit.  Out of the contemplative silence a plaintive cry of “Not another castle!?!” could clearly be heard. It was the young girl. Those of us standing close enough to hear her disappointment chuckled.  This was just one castle too many. No one could fault her. Despite her talents, good manners and best behavior she was, after all, still a child.

A good day in Switzerland

In my previous article “Something not funny happened on the way to the Alps”, I shared the travel challenges I experienced due to a stalled train. I was travelling with two companions to Zurich after completing a week on a Rhine River cruise that embarked in Amsterdam, Netherlands and ended in Basel, Switzerland. We extended our stay in Switzerland by one day to take a fast-paced tour that would introduce us to Zurich, Lucerne and Mt. Titlis, fulfilling my wish to visit the Alps. The river cruise and its itinerary exceeded my expectations but the trip from Basel to Zurich did not.  The Swiss railway system, noted for their promptness, failed to live up to their reputation this time due to a stalled train. That delay caused us to miss the tour departure from Zurich but due to the heroic efforts of the Swiss Rail employees, I and my two companions joined the tour in progress in Lucerne. Steady rain was disappointing but did not detract from the overall appreciation of the city. Lucerne is likely the most beautiful city in Switzerland and one of the prettiest in Europe. It hosts a marvelous architectural mix including buildings in Baroque and Renaissance design. Others have a strong medieval influence with many painted in tromp l’oeil fashion, a style which creates an illusion that the painted item exists in 3 dimensions and therefore seems realistic. The section known as Old Town transports you to another time as you walk past ancient buildings with an authentic patina, many with turrets that perhaps, once upon a time, were occupied by fair maidens. Covered walking bridges float over rivers and waterways with the most famous being the Kapellbrucke Bridge. This well- known landmark crosses the Reuss River and is the oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe. It’s likely the most beautiful bridge in Switzerland, with a multitude of flowers draped over the hand rails creating an image reminiscent of the works of Parisian artist, Monet. The Swiss Alps created an incredible background canvas to the city but I can’t deny that the steady rain detracted from our enjoyment of the landscape. Due to the challenges we endured to reach Lucerne we didn’t have the luxury of time to allow foul weather to keep us from seeing as much as possible. The lack of time caused us to forfeit seeing the famous Lion statue but I have no regrets missing the depiction of a dying animal. Despite the rain it was hard to ignore the beautiful facades of the classic city buildings.

We continued by coach to Engelberg, a mountain resort cradled by the Swiss Alps. This would be the grand finale of the sightseeing trifecta. The continued rain cast an obvious pall over the travelers on board the bus. No doubt, we all shared the same vision of snowy white Alpen peaks melting away in rivulets as the foul weather showed no signs of abating. With false optimism we entered the cable car that would take us to the platform where we would begin the second part of our ascent. To continue the journey, we boarded the Rotair, a rotating cable car that affords panoramic Alpine vistas as it ascends to a dizzying height of 3,238 meters (that’s 10,623 feet for us Americans). The slow rotation allowed me and my companions to exhale and begin to relax and enjoy the 360-degree views. We also noticed that the rain had slowly turned to snow. Each Rotair car stopped at a halfway point allowing fully equipped skiers, sledders and snowboarders and anyone else who so desired to exit the car and find their own way back to the bottom. The falling snow covered the mountain and lifted our spirits. This is what we had come to see. We remained onboard as we had yet to reach our ultimate destination; the top of Mt. Titlis. The wind was increasing and stirring up the snow, creating a swirling, snowy dreamscape. It felt like quite an accomplishment to reach the summit but in reality all we had to do was sit there and enjoy the ride. Once on top, we were given a generous amount of free time to explore the mountain and the glacier that forms its base. Some of the features are tourist driven such as a visit to the Glacier Cave. A 500 foot long walkway takes you through a manmade ice tunnel descending 65 feet below the surface of the Titlis glacier. Thrilling and chilling! Other features are sports driven. This is the place for skiing, sledding, tobogganing and snow shoeing enthusiasts of which I am not. Fortunately, it’s also the place for sightseeing, view seeking, want to see the Alps peeking kind of people, like me. Despite the suggestions in the brochure I did not ride the Ice Flyer to get closer to the frozen crevices. Nor did I soar down a snow slide in Glacier Park. I also failed to “summon the courage to walk over Europe’s highest suspension bridge, the Titlis Cliff Walk.” It was closed that day due to wind gusts. That bit of good fortune alleviated the need to concoct a believable story aout why I chose to not walk across a thin metal suspension bridge 10,000 feet above sea level. Instead, I headed for the food and beverage concession area to achieve my final goal; hot chocolate in the Swiss Alps. The line was long and slow moving. Those ahead of me were ordering snack and lunch options. With laden trays they carried their food to the nearest available table. I wondered if the hot cocoa was warming in a large cauldron or would I need to be patient while they heated the milk and melted the chocolate. I slid my empty tray down the railing closer and closer to my final desire. When it was my turn to be served, I paid for my soon to be savored, rich, thick, authentic Alps hot cocoa. The cashier placed a Styrofoam cup on my tray. Watching eagerly I waited for him to pour the steaming, velvety brown liquid but instead it was clear, like water. Did he think I requested tea? Did he misunderstand? Did I order incorrectly? The answer to the puzzle became obvious when he placed a packet of Swiss Miss instant cocoa mix on my tray. Was he serious? Yes, he was. To his credit, he offered to mix it for me, as though this was a product unique to Switzerland and not standard in most U.S. households. Considering the surroundings the faux hot chocolate was disappointing. What was a Swiss chocolate craving tourist to do? My solution was to go to the next floor which could be better known as the Lindt Level. Here, I was in chocolate heaven! Tobleron, the chocolate covered honey and almond nougat Swiss treat was also featured. In fact, it was oversized to where it would require both arms to hoist their biggest bar. I stocked up on chocolate gifts for friends and family and purchased a huge bar of Lindt chocolate for myself. My intention was to melt it and make my own hot chocolate. Despite the rough start, any day that ends with a large bar of chocolate should be considered a good day.

Hello Dolly!

So many people believe in miracles, happenings beyond coincidence, beyond explanation. Others put stock only in the reality of what can be experienced with the five senses existing in this material world. Although I remain based in the here and now I am still fascinated by the unknown. The Twilight zone and X-files televsion shows have been long standing favorites of mine. Though I cling to the X-files mantra “I want to believe”, I rarely do believe in unexplained phenomena. Being raised by parents of different faiths, neither very passionate about practicing their acquired by birth religions, allowed me the chance to seek my own path. I developed into a person who sees more similarities than differences between the major philosophies. Our family history could be described as “unremarkable”, and mostly unknown. I assume this is what piqued my interest in trying to find any thread, no matter how loose, to my past. When I was offered the chance to experience another river cruise choosing which river to visit was an easy task. I chose the Rhine River route because Strasbourg, France was on the itinerary as a port call bringing me back to France for a second time. The significance of this encore visit was that my Grandfather’s family hailed from a region listed on the ship’s itinerary. A scheduled stop in Strasbourg allowed me to explore Alsace Lorraine, also known as “la Petite France”. This beautiful area is renowned for Alsatian wines and tarte flambee, a local “pizza” with a thin crust topped with ham, onions and cheese. You can also find a side dish called choukroute more familiar to Americans as sauerkraut and of course, Quiche Lorraine. The area is home to hundreds of storks who have taken up residence on the rooftops.  The tall birds have become synonymous with the region after a successful breeding program brought them back from the brink of extinction. As you drive through the villages, during the right time of year it’s possible to see the birds sitting in huge nests high upon the roofs. Apparently they’ve put down roots and have chosen permanent residence instead of the annual migration to North Africa.  My Grandfather was a second generation American which protected him and his brother and parents from persecution by the German regime. Despite the anti-Semitic atmosphere in New York City during that period, they didn’t have to fear being remanded to local concentration camps. Arriving at Strasbourg, our first stop in the local area was the Strasbourg Cathedral de Notre Dam. It’s  the 2^nd most visited Cathedral in France, the first being the better known Notre Dam in Paris and I was curious to understand the difference between Cathedrals and Churches. Our guide explained that a Church attained the title of Cathedral to indicate the permanent presence of a Cardinal on site. The Holy structure was beautiful and situated in a large courtyard, surrounded by other charming buildings. But, it was the clock inside the Cathedral that was drawing crowds.   The Astronomical Clock is a marvelous piece of religious artwork. An early crowd had already gathered to wait for the timepiece to go through its motions.  At exactly 12:30pm the Angel on the clock sounded the chime and the Apostles began to pass before the Christ figure while the figures representing the stages of life circled before the Spectre of Death. It’s an incredible, beautiful piece and worth the effort to see it. As we left the Church we were reminded to be wary of the gypsies and beggars in the exterior courtyard. Indeed, there were musicians and people dressed in their own versions of death or pauper Angels, a sharp contrast to the actual beauty within the Church. Their goal was not to remind you about God but rather to separate you from your money, either voluntarily or by paying them to pose next to you for a photo, or by helping themselves to your wallet. Having been warned I steered clear of the costumed impostors, especially the one dressed as a skeleton. It left me feeling disappointed that they would steal from visitors to a Church and anxious to move on to our next destination. However, every stop eventually leads to a shopping break and there was a bank of souvenir booths conveniently located just steps from the Church courtyard.  My travel companions drifted towards the stores but I was not in a buying mood.  Suspicious of the locals, I walked away disappointed that I hadn’t felt any connection with the area. Eventually, I allowed myself to be drawn to two street musicians, or Buskers as they are called in Europe. One gentleman played an electric piano while the other played an electrified horn. They too were looking for donations to their own personal cause but at least they were providing entertainment. The music selections varied between polkas and wedding standards. Clearly they were playing to an older crowd. As I turned to walk away they started a song that was very familiar from my childhood. “Hello Dolly, well Hello Dolly, it’s so nice to have you back where you belong.” It was the classic standard “Hello Dolly” from the Broadway play of the same name. It was a piece I had never heard played by street performers. It was also one of my Grandfather’s favorite songs. Foot tapping and finger snapping to the music he would swing his head left and right as he sang along to the popular show tune.  The music stirred something in me and I could almost feel my Grandfather’s presence. It just seemed to be too much of a coincidence that they would play this particular song at the moment I was standing there. My mother is sure that their musical selection was based upon recognizing me as someone from the U.S. Maybe it was their go-to song for the American tourists. I’ll never know for sure but I’d like to think that my Grandfather was checking in on me.  “You’re looking swell Dolly, I can tell Dolly, you’re still glowing you’re still crowing, you’re still going strong.” Indeed, Grandpa, yes, I am.

Something (now) funny happened on the way to the Alps

A cruise on the Rhine River is most often enjoyed as a one way journey. This enables you to visit more ports of call without repeating the itinerary in reverse as you return to your starting point. A Rhine cruise can either embark in Basel Switzerland and end in Amsterdam Netherlands or you could opt for the reverse. I chose to travel up the Rhine beginning in Amsterdam and terminating in Basel. My decision was based upon wanting to spend extra time in Holland to see the annual limited mass blooming of the tulips at Keukenhof. The availability of admission is very limited and my final itinerary was based upon when I could secure entry to the park. Even though my allotted time off from work was tight I chose to add on one additional night at the end of the cruise with the express purpose of visiting Zurich. However, my ultimate goal was to get up into the Alps!

After researching many tour options I reasoned that since I was in “the neighborhood” I should include Lucerne, also known as Luzern, in the itinerary. Storied to be one of the most beautiful areas in Europe, I opted for a  package that included a stop in the city on the way to the Alps. I found an option with an early departure from Zurich that would include a walking tour through Lucerne before heading to the Alps and visiting Mt. Titlis. This had everything I could have hoped for. However, timing would be critical for the day to be successful. I ran through several itineraries and had everything planned to the Swiss minute. I confirmed that we could utilize an early departure from the boat and a pre-arranged taxi would pick us up at the pier to take us to the train station. A double check of the meeting point and location at the arrival train station boosted my confidence. I offered my travel companions two choices. The first option would have us boarding an 8:07am train and arriving 20 minutes before the required gathering time prior to the start of the tour. The second option was an hour earlier, but also meant a 6am departure from the boat. Relying upon the famed punctuality of the Swiss and the European train systems, with full confidence, we chose the 8:07am departure to arrive at 9:00am. The taxi arrived a few minutes early and we were ready, so we jumped in. The streets were empty, lacking work day traffic on a Sunday morning and we arrived at the train station with enough time to buy coffee and pastries. Being among the first to board the train, we had plenty of seating options. As a party of 3, we chose 2 seats facing 2 additional seats with a small table between us. True to Swiss punctuality, the train pulled out at the designated time of 8:07am and at precisely 8:34am the train came to a full stop. There was no explanation for the delay. My travel companions were understandably concerned, which eventually morphed into agitation. I was keenly aware of the passing minutes, constantly recalculating whether or not we would reach the tour group on time. We still had cell service and I was able to use my phone and contact the tour company to advise them of our situation. They assured me that they would watch for our arrival to assist us in joining the tour. When 20 or more minutes had passed, it was clear that the tour group would be departing without us. It was also very clear that our train was expected to be stationary for a long time since we were now being directed off the current train and on to the platform. A replacement train pulled alongside our dormant vehicle and we passengers were urged to get aboard quickly. It was obvious that this train was not in regular service. The older model had the appearance of a work horse that had seen a lot of service and bore the telltale signs of wear and tear. This train was like the ugly step sister to the newer, modern trains with Wi-Fi, food and beverage carts and upgraded classes of service. Likely, having been relegated to an out of service train yard, brought back to life only when an emergency required its reentry. Unsure of where we currently were located and even less sure of how to continue our journey to Zurich I reached out to a Conductor. He consulted with his dispatch office and with their help devised a plan. The plan would require boarding one train and connecting to a second train that would bring us to Lucerne instead of Zurich as originally intended. However, the most challenging part of the journey was still ahead.  As Murphy’s Law would have it the train we needed to board was departing in 5 minutes on the other side of the terminal. Having no familiarity with the layout of this station, I reached out to the Conductor, once again, and explained our dilemma. This resulted in a second consultation with Dispatch and he advised that he would escort us to our replacement transportation. This seems like an appropriate time to use the euphemism “he was running like he had a train to catch”, and he did. We all did! So there we were, 3 very short women carrying an average of 40 pounds of luggage per person running behind a 6 foot tall Conductor through crowds of fellow travelers.

I often hear travelers say “getting there is half the battle”. That certainly proved true in this case. But was it worth it? Were we able to catch up with the tour group? Did we make it to the top of Mt. Titlis? I’ve run out of column space so, like all good dramas, I’ll leave you with a bit of mystery. Please join us again in two weeks to learn if we were successful in our quest to reach the Alps.

Musical Memories

Tourism is one of the top revenue producers in the world with an economic impact counted in Trillions of dollars. If you’re having trouble envisioning what the exact number looks like imagine a “1” with 12 zeroes after it. This staggering figure includes the airline and cruise industries, hotels, motels and inns, trains, buses and car rentals. Tour guides, souvenir shops, eateries and general spending also contribute to that massive bottom line. The industry is one of the largest employers providing 277 million jobs in 2014. The World Travel & Tourism Council reports that 1 in 11 jobs held by Americans are in the tourism sector. Governments fund their tourist departments to entice visitors who utilize accommodations and restaurants and public transportation. Tourist attractions, restaurants and shopping areas also benefit mightily. Germany is the 7^th most visited country in the world! Over 407 million tourists enter the country each year, all staying in accommodations, buying food, paying admissions to attractions, and perhaps purchasing souvenirs. That works out nicely for the main tourist cities such as Munich, Frankfurt and Berlin. But what if you’re a small town on the Rhine River? How do you entice tourists and their vacation dollars?  Rüdesheim am Rhein is a small winemaking town in the Rhine Gorge. Its location on the river allows it to be included as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Still, even though it sits in the shadows of all the magnificent Rhine castles, Rudesheim has successfully positioned itself as a regular stop for river cruise boats.

My visit to Rudesheim started with the option of riding an open car miniature train down the narrow cobblestone street or by foot. The silly little train made it easier for the less mobile to reach the museum so I chose to walk. It was chilly and overcast but I enjoy walking.  Wandering down the cobblestone street of Drosselgasse gave me a front row view of the window displays. It’s basically the “Main Street” of the area with all the requisite tourist souvenir shops and food offerings. Our small group made its way to Siegfried’s Mechanisches Musikkabinett which translates to: Museum of Mechanical Instruments–or as we know them – music boxes.  The prospect didn’t excite me but I was hesitant to separate from my travel companions who did want to visit. Our representative from the riverboat delivered us to the front door of the museum and introduced us to the resident tour guide. She was dressed in 1800s attire, the period when music boxes were first developed. The mechanics of how the music was produced didn’t interest me. I was more interested in the artistry and detail of the beautiful and varied pieces. My experience with music boxes had been limited to a small Swiss Alpine style log cabin that belonged to my Mother.  It wasn’t large enough to hold anything but the smallest of trinkets. Lifting the roof activated the music though I can’t remember the song. During my mid teen years first boyfriend gave me a larger music box. Asian in style which, at the time was my preferred décor aesthetic, I pretended to be surprised when I unwrapped the gift. The truth is that I hankered for that box every time we passed the drug store window where it was prominently featured and had made my wish known, very clearly. Our tour guide explained the evolution of the music box. The complexity of the instruments was quite an accomplishment considering that, in comparison, the automobile had yet to be invented. With each new room the music boxes increased in size, ability and grandeur until we entered a room which held phonographs from the 1800’s. They looked like the record players we’re familiar with yet, the “record” was very different. These too, were music boxes but designed to look like a phonograph. The sound generated from a 12 inch perforated metal disc when the arm of the antique record player plucked the notes producing music. As the older audience recognized a long ago familiar song, several chuckled in recognition while some swayed to the music. When they reached the chorus “que sera, sera whatever will be, will be” many were singing along. Their memories were palpable, their joy infectious. My eyes now moist, gave me away as I was deeply touched watching my fellow travelers recalling and reliving decades old fond memories. Some might have thought it hokey watching the older folks in the audience closing their eyes and tapping their feet to familiar tunes. I was deeply touched. Music has the power to transport us to another time, to stir feelings and memories to the point that even those with dementia react to familiar songs. I unwillingly admit that while I can’t remember where I placed the scissors 10 minutes ago I can recall every word, every nuance from childhood pop songs. Even when I haven’t heard them in a decade. Our tour ended with a stop to sample the famous Rudesheimer Coffee. I would describe it as sweet and quite potent. Suddenly boarding that little tourist train seemed to be a really good choice. If you’d like to try the coffee, please see the recipe I’ve included. Remember no drinking and driving but riding in miniature train cars is definitely allowed.

When used appropriately, music can shift mood, manage stress-induced agitation, stimulate positive interactions, facilitate cognitive function, and coordinate motor movements. This happens because rhythmic and other well-rehearsed responses require little to no cognitive or mental processing. They are influenced by the motor center of the brain that responds directly to auditory rhythmic cues. A person’s ability to engage in music, particularly rhythm playing and singing, remains intact late into the disease process because, again, these activities do not mandate cognitive functioning for success.

Music Associations. Most people associate music with important events and a wide array of emotions. The connection can be so strong that hearing a tune long after the occurrence evokes a memory of it.Prior experience with the piece is the greatest indicator of an individual’s likely response. “

Rudesheimer coffee – Coffee with a kick

Almost 1.5ounces of Asbach Uralt 3 cubes of sugar Hot coffee (regular or decaf) Whipped cream sweetened with vanilla sugar Grated milk chocolate

Cooking Instructions Rudesheimer Coffee

– Put 3 cubes of sugar in an original Rüdesheimer Coffee cup, pour over 1.5 ounces of well-heated Asbach and light it by using a long match. – Stir with a long-handled spoon to dissolve the sugar. – Let it burn for about 1 minute, then pour in hot coffee to about 1inch  below the rim. – Top off with a scoop of whipped cream and sprinkle with grated chocolate.